![]() ![]() Yes, I have fixed all the wiring problems that were OEM installed on the assembly line. It will easily skid tires using manual over ride lever. I can lock up the electric trailer brakes on my 14K 2 axle toyhauler at 60 mph by stomping on the pedal. If your plain electric trailer brakes won't lock up something is not right in the system. Think about the discharge potential of 200amp 12v LFP battery in this situation. Magnets at the end of the circuit are a resistivity load and will continue 100% engagement of brakes until battery dies or wiring smokes. If activated -it does not automatically reset. Then a sub circuit that overrides normal operation under Emergency breakaway activation The sub system is driven(powered) by battery on trailer. Electric trailer brakes are really a main circuit of normal operation driven (powered) by tow vehicle 7 way brake lead wire. "What's this wire for?" "Who's the maniac that wired this system?" "WTF?" The challenge would be creating a firewall between the two systems. The downside would be that I need to keep a lead acid battery instead of getting rid of all of them like I had originally planned. The new solar system would be strictly used for the rest of the trailer. My existing solar system would be used to keep that battery topped up. The regular lead acid battery on the tongue would be relegated to braking and running lights as well as being the starter battery for the generator. The new solar system will be responsible for that. So I'm not really looking for the tow vehicle to charge my "house" batteries in my trailer. Not more than say, 20 amps, usually less. The amount of charge that I get from the tow vehicle (2017 Ford F-350, with dual alternators) isn't that great. I've been thinking - but not too hard - about a hybrid system. ![]() The electrical system on a modern tow vehicle will not allow the trailer battery to backfeed into the tow vehicle's battery.Īs said above, a hybrid system may work better. You just have to use a small enough charger to not overload your vehicle wiring. While starting your battery and the few seconds after you start your tow vehicle, the lithium battery can feed back to the starting battery until the alternator kicks in.īest solution in my opinion is to use a DC-DC charger in the trailer between the trailer connector and your lithium battery. Power can also flow the other way as well. Once the starting battery reaches the float stage, you will get a very minimal amount of charging to your lithium battery. Typically, when you start your vehicle and your alternator is charging the starting battery, you will get some charging to your lithium battery while the alternator is outputting at bulk or absorption voltage. This wire will not charge your lithium battery well. You need to have a way to ensure that your trailer battery is staying charged and it may be required by law. The battery in your trailer should be tied to the break-away cable to activate your trailer brakes in the event that the trailer becomes disconnected. If you have trailer brakes, you should not just disconnect this wire. This is not a very impressive solution in my opinion but it is very common. Many trailer manufacturer's install an automatic reset 30amp breaker on the trailer to prevent pulling more than 30amps when you have a dead battery in either your tow vehicle or the trailer. This wire is typically used to keep the trailers battery charged while driving. I wouldn't recommend more than 20amps through this wire though. It is typically either fused at 30 or 40amps. The 12V power wire in the 7-way plug should be connected to the tow vehicles battery.
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